302 engine/dress

After pulling the engine out of the car, I did a partial teardown to replace some gaskets and make sure that it was an HO engine.  This took a lot of time and effort, but while I had to live with an engine that wasn’t rebuilt, I really did not want to deal with a motor that leaked oil too.

engine mount grinding

The engine mounts used between the cradle and the block were equipped on small block ford cars from 68-83 (CarQuest MOU 31-2372, thanks Brian).  The passenger’s side has to be cut and ground down a lot to clear the headers but the metal is very thick so it should still be plenty strong.

engine side

The equipped headers are Patriot block huggers.  To clear the steering shaft the tube coming off of cylinder six has to be dented.  I did this with a heat gun, a piece of steel tube, and a BAMFH.  It barely clears.

I transferred two gauge senders over from the L28 motor.  Oil pressure and water temp.  I used standard-metric gauge sender adapters made by a company called Equius.  The water temp sender actually screwed right into one of the holes in the top of the intake manifold, so I ended up just using the oil pressure adapter.  I actually had to trim the bottom (the threaded part) quite a bit so that the oil would actually flow to the sender, but I don’t have any pictures of how much I cut off.

oil pressure sender

Aside from that I just swapped out the pilot bearing on the crank before putting the stock and tired flywheel, disk, and pressure plates back on.  This is the tool you use to remove the pilot bearing.

dsc01003

The 1985 Mustang GT was the last of the 4bbl Mustangs, and I picked up a Holley Street Avenger 600cfm to replace the stock carb and simplify the installation

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